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| Roof tops of the ancient city |
In Hvar City, ancient stone staircases lead down to the harbor from all directions. These staircases have uneven limestone steps polished by years of use.
This is not a city for those with bad knees or walking problems. A labyrinth of narrow walkways connect the staircases. Both walkways and staircases are lined with small shops and restaurants. Once you’ve seen 5-10 of the shops, you’ve seen them all, mostly jewelry, but also beachwear, expensive clothing, and knickknacks. One reason for this similarity is that some of the shops have the same owners. When Communism lost its death grip on Croatia, these little shops sprang up in converted hallways and basement rooms throughout the City.
The harbor is lined with modern yachts and decked with small vendor booths, but it has not lost its ancient flavor.
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| It looks like a few pirate ships hit port! |
EATING IN HVAR
We decided to breakfast one morning at the bakeries and grocery stores, and we found some good things. I had a pastry with meat between paper thin layers of pastry dough. The fat from the meat made it moist and flavorful. (14.50 kuna, less than $3)
Going back through the produce market, we found another bakery where we purchased dessert for the evening. And we also watched a lady clean a fish for a customer.
I have made an about-face in regard to this restaurant. In 2009, I thought the fried shrimp I had was the best on my whole trip--a good size plate of larger shrimp, prepared well with friendly waitstaff. This year, I had a different experience. The waitstaff were not especially friendly, the plate of shrimp (for 50 kuna) seemed much smaller, and many of the shrimp were small. Since this dish is fried in the shells, it makes for lots of peeling if the shrimp are small. I did notice that the shrimp served to other diners was of varying quantity, so perhaps last year I just got a generous cook's serving and this year a stingy cook's. I had planned to have this shrimp twice while in Hvar this trip, but once was enough. You can find out more about this restaurant in last year's section on Hvar.
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| Mama Leona's Pizza |
Located right on the harbor, this restaurant serves pizzas, pasta, and salad. My husband had the lasagna (62 kuna), which he said was good and meaty, but he admitted that his mother's lasagna is better (and she's a Swede not an Italian)! I had a salad (20 kuna) which consisted of cabbage, a tomato, a few slices of cucumber and chopped pepper. There was vinegar and oil at the table or I could have paid 10 kuna extra for an American style dressing. It was fresh and pretty much what I expect from this corner of the world. It's hard to beat American for good salads! The following day my husband and I split a calzone at Mama Leona's and it was good and enough for us since we'd eaten a larger lunch. You can find more on this restaurant in last year's section on Hvar.
This restaurant sits on the main town square with a large display menu to look over before you decide if you want to give it a try. We tried the lasagna, which was better than Mama Leona's, but still not as good as my mother-in-law's! We also ordered the chicken breasts but asked if we could have them with green pepper corn sauce (this was on the menu with a beef dish). The waiter said, "of course!" and we were charged 15 kuna extra, which seemed fair to us. This was perhaps one of our favorite dishes we've had in Croatia. The two chicken breast slices were pounded thin, nicely fried, and smothered in a creamy, flavorful sauce with plenty of spicy peppercorns. Our bill for the lasagna, chicken breasts, fries, and a liter of mineral water was 169 kuna before the tip.
Hvar in the morning reminds me of village with a pleasant hang over from the fullness of the night before—not altogether quiet, but calm and reflective. Before the sun completely burns off the morning coolness, take an opportunity to sit comfortably on the benches lining the harbor, many of which are shaded by huge palm trees. This is a good time and place to eat a pastry from one of the bakeries nearby and people watch. We bought a pastry—ground ham and cheese between paper thin layers of dough, cooked soft, not crisp—at Trgovina Shop near the harbor. It was quite good for 15 kuna.
HOTEL ADRIANA BAR
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| This picture taken from the patio of the Adriana Spa Hotel. It was a little more expensive to buy a beverage at this hotel bar (about $5 for a beer and $3 for a small latte), but worth it for the comfortable chairs and great view shaded by an awning. A nice place to use the city wifi which you can sign up for in hourly, 24 hour (75 kuna), or 7 day increments. We signed up for a 24 hour period and could use it in our room or just about anywhere in the city. |
The Riva Hotel right on the harbor is perhaps the nicest hotel in Hvar, and the price reflects this. The front of the hotel is a wonderful covered patio with comfortable rattan couches. We enjoyed an evening coffee on this porch...they actually had caffeine free coffee, which is rare in Croatia. The waiter was friendly and the prices were only slightly higher than other restaurants in the city. This is well worth it for the beauty and comfort of the surroundings. Allows you to feel a bit like the rich and famous on a budget.
HVAR FACTS
In the 4th Century, a Greek town (Faros) was founded at the sight of present day Stari Grad. During Roman rule, The Croatians changed the name of the town to Hvar. In 1278, the official center of the island was moved from Stari Grad to the location of the present-day Hvar. The original Hvar was then called Stari Grad (old town) and the new location Novi Hvar, eventually shortened to simply Hvar.
The main source of income for the island of Hvar is tourism. Some of the residents make their living by fishing or olive oil, wine, and lavender oil production, but even these are helped by tourism. Tourism has always been a part of the island's economy, and with good reason. Travelor magazine espoused Hvar's appeal in a 2007 article in this way:
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| unusual artwork hanging from a shop window |
I fear that this untouched description has changed in the last three years as more people have "discovered" Hvar, but that was inevitable considering all that it offers. However, you can still find remote life and relaxation away from civilization on the island if you stay in one of the many villages outside of the tourist cities as long as you are not expecting modern facilities, English TV or internet access. There are also many camp grounds on the island in remote places.
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| An internet cafe along one of the narrow stone staircases shows how the modern and ancient meet in Hvar. |
HVAR FORTRESS--WHAT A VIEW!
You can also drive up to the entrance of the castle which I recommend if you have foot of knee problems.
HVAR GAS
According to our land lady, there is only one gas station in Hvar, and it is not in a necessarily convenient place. We found it before driving back to the Sucaraj ferry. Ask for directions.
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| Ivana in front of her door which is located next to their rental flats. |
LODGING
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| At the door way to the flat. |
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